McFoodie and I agreed a long time ago that we wouldn't give each other presents for our wedding anniversaries, but would treat ourselves to some kind of experience. This year, for anniversary number 3, we decided we'd give The Cheerful Soul at the Hare and Hounds a try.
The Cheerful Soul has attracted quite a lot of attention in recent months - it's run by Michele English and Russell Clement, who won BBC Television's The Restaurant programme, and is backed by Raymond Blanc. Prior to being taken over, the Hare and Hounds was a pub that never seemed very busy or very interesting, in spite of a couple of makeovers and an attempt at funky branding. It seems that this country pub may have turned a corner, and this is not purely the result of some lucky television coverage. The place has been totally redecorated and I'd wondered what this would mean for the building's character but it's all there and is all the better for some very individual touches. There is a small bar area and the restaurant is divided into two sections, with the second decorated with an assortment of pretty painted images on the walls. The place is a lovely hotch potch of different tables, chairs and lights, but it all comes together and there is a lovely homely feel that still gives you the impression that you're being treated.
McFoodie and I arrived a little early so that we could have something bubbly in the bar before we sat down to eat. The welcome is certainly very warm and, as you'd expect, cheerful. When I'd booked, I'd been asked if the visit was to mark any special occasion and had said it was for our anniversary, wondering if it was a wise move (I'm forever haunted by TGI Friday's once making me stand on a chair while the servers sang "happy birthday"). We were wished a happy anniversary on arrival and then wandered off to the bar for a very nice glass of house champagne and a look at the menu.
As soon as it was 8.30pm, the time of our booking, one of the members of staff came and asked us if we'd like to go through to our table, which was sprinkled with sparkly hearts in honour of our of anniversary. In an old building with wooden floors, wobbly tables are par for the course and it was good to see that the staff know this and address the problem, with the help of a trusty beer mat, before you lose your drink or your temper. As well as being friendly, the service is very efficient, without being overbearing - even on a busy Saturday evening there was always someone nearby to help, so they've obviously got their numbers right. Our orders were taken pretty promptly - maybe it's an anniversary thing but McFoodie and I ordered the same dishes...having made my selection from the menu, I wasn't going to have something different just to have more to write about!
Unlike many other restaurants, bread is paid for but mineral water is complimentary - this seemed a little unusual at first, but it actually makes sense when you think about the food waste and obesity debates - as much as I love bread, I often just eat it because it's there, and then end up not being able to eat as much of the food I've actually ordered. The water was regularly replenished, which was great. Although both the menu and the receipt note that you can buy the branded bottles in aid of the Kileva Foundation (a charitable organisation working in the Coast Province of Kenya), this is by no means forced upon you. We ordered a bottle of New Zealand Astrolabe sauvignon blanc, which, according to the menu, is the world's best sauvignon. Without trying all of the ones that exist, I can't really say if that was correct or not, but it was certainly very good - sharp and lively, and exactly what you want a sauvignon to be. The Cheerful Soul also offers wine by the carafe (500ml), which is a great option for those dining with drivers.
To start, both McFoodie and I chose chicken liver parfait with black fig chutney and toasted baguette - the parfait was incredibly light and soft, with a great flavour that was enhanced by a light sprinkling of chunky rock salt. To follow, we had roasted Gressingham duck breast with hedgerow fruits and savoy cabbage with smoked bacon. The duck was nicely pink - it could have been pinker but was by no means tough or over-cooked, and was packed full of flavour. The cabbage and the smokey flavour of the bacon worked very well with the duck, as did the slices of soft pear and plum. I opted for a side order of mashed potato, which was very nice but could have benefited from a little more pepper and butter, to make it that bit more special. McFoodie's chips were a tempting alternative, wonderfully crisp on the outside and soft in the middle - perfect for the potato hater, who would normally turn his nose up at any form of potato wider than a matchstick!
To finish, McFoodie and I opted for sticky toffee pudding, which was one of the best I've tried in years - soft and dense but without being heavy and packed with flavour from an intensely sweet and sticky sauce, served with a dollop of honeycomb ice cream. This was the perfect ending and I'd certainly recommend anyone dining at the Cheerful Soul to leave room for pudding.
This was a great experience for a special occasion - the Cheerful Soul is relaxed but still feels special and the team behind this restaurant seem to have achieved their goal of making dining there an enjoyable experience. The service was really very good - when my wine glass disappeared at one stage (we'd stashed our bottle away on the windowsill to make more room), a new one was brought to the table very quickly. Because McFoodie was driving, we wanted to take our remaining wine home with us and there was no wrinkling of noses - in fact a bottle top was rapidly sought out and provided. The food and wine were also excellent - I'm definitely going to be looking for Astrolabe wines. It was interesting to see that Russell Clement was sat at one of the tables nearby with a group of friends - even though he wasn't in the kitchen, every snippet of conversation that I overheard seemed to be about food so the restaurant is clearly never far from his mind and maybe that focus and level of interest is what is making this place work. Cost wise, it's not bad either, £101 for three courses for two including two side orders and wine is certainly reasonable for a special occasion and the overall experience was certainly a positive one. I wouldn't be surprised if this place is putting a bit of a squeeze on the Royal Oak at Bovingdon Green, which has very much a similar feel, and I hope it's putting some pressure on The Hand and Flowers, where the food is no better but the pretentious attitude makes the experience not nearly as enjoyable.
Sunday 4 October 2009
Sunday 20 September 2009
Criterion, Piccadilly Circus
I visited Criterion http://www.criterionrestaurant.com/home.html on a surprisingly sunny day, further improved by the fact that it was my birthday and I was being taken there by a very nice agency that works for me. I have to admit that, despite an interest in eating out and some effort to know what's what, I knew little about the place. It was a fairly quiet Wednesday lunchtime, but there were still a number of tables occupied. We were seated quite close to the back of the dining room, which is quite impressive to look at and instills a feeling of calm, as well as the sense of excitement that a birthday should bring...even when you're the wrong side of thirty. The surroundings were incredible, with high ceilings covered in ornate mosaics, which added to the feeling of opulence.
Our waiter was attentive without being overbearing and didn't rush us to make our selections, which was lucky as it was a process that took some time. Before our starters, we were given little canapes with tomato and some lovely fresh bread. The starters arrived pretty quickly and my fois gras parfait was very good - rich and smooth - and served with toasted brioche and a port reduction, which worked well but my preference would have been for some kind of compote or chutney to provide some contrast and acidity. My two dining companions chose the king scallops with broad beans and spoke very positively about them.
Once we'd finished with our starters, leaving only very clean plates, our table was promptly cleared and our main courses followed quite quickly. I chose the dukkha spiced ostrich tender loin with sweet potato and beef bobotje, which was incredible and quite possibly one of the best things I've eaten in ages. Served medium rare, the ostrich was juicy and incredibly flavoursome, perfectly complemented by just the right amount of spices to add a really interesting tang but not heat. The pureed sweet potato was a wonderful contrast in terms of texture and worked really well with the tender meat, while the bobotje was amazingly aromatic and added another dimension of flavour and a third texture. One of my companions opted for wild salmon and lobster ravioli with bisque and really enjoyed it and seemed pleased to have selected this rather than steak. The third person at the table chose baked fish with confit potatoes and was equally appreciative. Needless to say, none of us left anything on our plates and all felt incredibly satisfied. Our food was washed down by two bottles of a wonderful Pouilly Fume, which was beautifully light and perhaps a little too drinkable as we finished the first bottle before we got to the end of our starters.
After polishing off every last morsel on our plates, we had simply no room left for dessert. However, my companions had ordered a little surprise - a lovely, light chocolate mousse cake, complete with a perfect quenelle of vanilla ice cream and a candle - a great and very pretty end to a wonderful meal.
Throughout the meal, the staff were polite and attentive, but not overly so and on finishing our meals we were by no means rushed to drain the last drops of fresh mint tea from our cups, and left to chat, even though lunchtime was officially over. Criterion succeeded in serving up amazing food in very impressive surroundings but without any of the pompousness that you might expect. The staff know their menu and are happy to provide recommendations and advice and the little extra touches - even the goldfish in bowls in the bathrooms - make the experience of eating there feel like a real treat.
I like to think that I'm as happy in a country pub as I am in a fancy London restaurant but this was a really wonderful experience and a truly memorable meal - and a great birthday experience.
Our waiter was attentive without being overbearing and didn't rush us to make our selections, which was lucky as it was a process that took some time. Before our starters, we were given little canapes with tomato and some lovely fresh bread. The starters arrived pretty quickly and my fois gras parfait was very good - rich and smooth - and served with toasted brioche and a port reduction, which worked well but my preference would have been for some kind of compote or chutney to provide some contrast and acidity. My two dining companions chose the king scallops with broad beans and spoke very positively about them.
Once we'd finished with our starters, leaving only very clean plates, our table was promptly cleared and our main courses followed quite quickly. I chose the dukkha spiced ostrich tender loin with sweet potato and beef bobotje, which was incredible and quite possibly one of the best things I've eaten in ages. Served medium rare, the ostrich was juicy and incredibly flavoursome, perfectly complemented by just the right amount of spices to add a really interesting tang but not heat. The pureed sweet potato was a wonderful contrast in terms of texture and worked really well with the tender meat, while the bobotje was amazingly aromatic and added another dimension of flavour and a third texture. One of my companions opted for wild salmon and lobster ravioli with bisque and really enjoyed it and seemed pleased to have selected this rather than steak. The third person at the table chose baked fish with confit potatoes and was equally appreciative. Needless to say, none of us left anything on our plates and all felt incredibly satisfied. Our food was washed down by two bottles of a wonderful Pouilly Fume, which was beautifully light and perhaps a little too drinkable as we finished the first bottle before we got to the end of our starters.
After polishing off every last morsel on our plates, we had simply no room left for dessert. However, my companions had ordered a little surprise - a lovely, light chocolate mousse cake, complete with a perfect quenelle of vanilla ice cream and a candle - a great and very pretty end to a wonderful meal.
Throughout the meal, the staff were polite and attentive, but not overly so and on finishing our meals we were by no means rushed to drain the last drops of fresh mint tea from our cups, and left to chat, even though lunchtime was officially over. Criterion succeeded in serving up amazing food in very impressive surroundings but without any of the pompousness that you might expect. The staff know their menu and are happy to provide recommendations and advice and the little extra touches - even the goldfish in bowls in the bathrooms - make the experience of eating there feel like a real treat.
I like to think that I'm as happy in a country pub as I am in a fancy London restaurant but this was a really wonderful experience and a truly memorable meal - and a great birthday experience.
Friday 11 September 2009
Cipriani, Davies Street, London
I really like my job on the days when it takes me to some of London's most interesting restaurants. Actually, I like it most of the time but that's another story/blog!
When I needed a venue for a business lunch, someone suggested Cipriani (http://www.cipriani.com/locations/london.php). As a true country mouse, I hadn't a clue about it...my Time Out Guide to Eating and Drinking in London has, perhaps wrongly, been buried in the magazine rack for a while now so I tend to go with recommendations. This was a pretty good one and for a venue for conversation as well as scoffing, it is pretty good. It's lively enough to be interesting and fill the moments when conversation lapses but quiet enough to be able to talk properly. As the lunch was a business meeting, I didn't force my co-diners to analyse their lunches to the nth degree, so I can speak only of my own experiences, but they were good.
The dining room at Cipriani has a fantastic feel to it - it's very art deco in style, with a busy bar and is a great place for people watching...when you're not meant to be focusing on the discussions you're actually there for. The first thing that wowed me was the bread - like croissants, but rolled into sort of a flat-bottomed sea shell. These were incredible, and although I could feel the calories going straight to my hips, there was no way I was going to leave even the smallest crumb! The menu at Cipriani has a great mix of pastas, risottos, meat and fish and making a selection was something of a challenge, to say the least. To start, I chose bresaola, which came with a drizzle of olive oil and parmesan shavings. This was a fantastic start, the meat was soft and full of flavour and really got my tastebuds warmed up. To follow, I chose swordfish steak with cherry tomatoes and black olives: the steak was not an even thickness and so while the middle was perfectly cooked, some of the edges were starting to get a little dry. The cherry tomato and black olive topping was a great way to serve the fish, and was laced with basil and black pepper, although the generous quantity somewhat drowned the fish. This dish was served with a portion of rice, which was nice enough but somewhat surplus to requirements.
As this was a business lunch, I stuck to water, although the wine and cocktail list was certainly calling my name - the Cipriani family, which owned Harry's Bar in New York, has a strong connection to the Bellini but as someone who is often somewhat knocked out by lunchtime drinking, I just had to resist. Perhaps if McFoodie and I are ever in the area and on our own time, we'll give it a try. I'd certainly be interested in trying something else from Cipriani's menu and doing some more focused people watching.
When I needed a venue for a business lunch, someone suggested Cipriani (http://www.cipriani.com/locations/london.php). As a true country mouse, I hadn't a clue about it...my Time Out Guide to Eating and Drinking in London has, perhaps wrongly, been buried in the magazine rack for a while now so I tend to go with recommendations. This was a pretty good one and for a venue for conversation as well as scoffing, it is pretty good. It's lively enough to be interesting and fill the moments when conversation lapses but quiet enough to be able to talk properly. As the lunch was a business meeting, I didn't force my co-diners to analyse their lunches to the nth degree, so I can speak only of my own experiences, but they were good.
The dining room at Cipriani has a fantastic feel to it - it's very art deco in style, with a busy bar and is a great place for people watching...when you're not meant to be focusing on the discussions you're actually there for. The first thing that wowed me was the bread - like croissants, but rolled into sort of a flat-bottomed sea shell. These were incredible, and although I could feel the calories going straight to my hips, there was no way I was going to leave even the smallest crumb! The menu at Cipriani has a great mix of pastas, risottos, meat and fish and making a selection was something of a challenge, to say the least. To start, I chose bresaola, which came with a drizzle of olive oil and parmesan shavings. This was a fantastic start, the meat was soft and full of flavour and really got my tastebuds warmed up. To follow, I chose swordfish steak with cherry tomatoes and black olives: the steak was not an even thickness and so while the middle was perfectly cooked, some of the edges were starting to get a little dry. The cherry tomato and black olive topping was a great way to serve the fish, and was laced with basil and black pepper, although the generous quantity somewhat drowned the fish. This dish was served with a portion of rice, which was nice enough but somewhat surplus to requirements.
As this was a business lunch, I stuck to water, although the wine and cocktail list was certainly calling my name - the Cipriani family, which owned Harry's Bar in New York, has a strong connection to the Bellini but as someone who is often somewhat knocked out by lunchtime drinking, I just had to resist. Perhaps if McFoodie and I are ever in the area and on our own time, we'll give it a try. I'd certainly be interested in trying something else from Cipriani's menu and doing some more focused people watching.
The White Oak, Cookham
Eating out has been something of a rare treat in these credit crunch times, so a trip to the White Oak (http://www.thewhiteoak.co.uk/) with McFoodie's dad and step mum was a real treat. It's a regular watering hole for us and we'd eaten there once before and really enjoyed it.
We met my parents for a drink in the bar before dinner and were left to enjoy ourselves with no pressure to move through to the dining room, even though it was a busy Friday night. The White Oak has a great selection of wines - I particularly recommend the Chilean sauvignon blanc - plus a good selection of beers. The atmosphere is spot-on - relaxed and informal yet smart, friendly and genuinely welcoming.
On moving through to the dining room, we were sat in the calm and well-lit dining room and given bread and menus very efficiently. In most cases, the staff really know the menu, although there was one dish that the waitress could not comment on as she'd not tried it (on a later visit, we overheard that the new menu had just been introduced and that all the staff had been tasting it). To start, McFoodie chose the chicken liver parfait and I had the goat's cheese salad. Both were great dishes with a big chunk of parfait that had a wonderful texture - the usual comment about not quite enough toast was made but bread was easily obtained to make up for it. The goat's cheese was beautifully nut-crusted with a lovely dressed salad of green leaves and beetroot - you get a lot of cheese for your money at the White Oak and the dish was very well-balanced and enjoyable - the only slight criticism was that there could have been more beetroot, which was specifically mentioned on the menu. Still, at least I'm not moaning about a lack of cheese!
The main courses really were sublime and McFoodie and I both thought them to be the best things we'd eaten in ages. Duck breast with a spiced honey sauce and gnocchi was the perfect choice for my husband, for who only a small number of potato dishes are acceptable. The duck was perfectly cooked and full of flavour and the spicing was just right. For me, lamb cutlets with gratin dauphinoise was impeccable - it was served with roasted carrot and parsnip and the kind of jus that you want to ask for in a pint glass. The lamb was so well-cooked, beautifully pink and incredibly flavoursome. The meal was washed down with a very enjoyable Marlborough sauvignon blanc (yes, white wine with lamb and duck!).
Once main meals were done, I couldn't even consider eating anything more for fear of bursting at the seams but McFoodie chose a selection of Salcombe Dairy ice creams - staying true to our shared love of Devon.
Overall this was an incredibly enjoyable experience - great food, lovely surroundings and very good staff in both the restaurant and the bar. I can't recommend this place highly enough and between that visit and writing this, not only have we returned for many a glass of wine but also shared a starter platter one evening - wonderful honeyed sweet potato soup, that amazing chicken liver parfait, the best breaded king prawns I've ever had and a ham hock terrine that, on reading the menu left me unmoved, but proved to be the jewel in the crown.
Bottom line - if you're going to eat in the Berkshire/South Buckinghamshire area, this is a real must. I can't tell you how much the bill was as McFoodie's father payed (thanks pa-in-law!) but I can say that it's worth every penny!
We met my parents for a drink in the bar before dinner and were left to enjoy ourselves with no pressure to move through to the dining room, even though it was a busy Friday night. The White Oak has a great selection of wines - I particularly recommend the Chilean sauvignon blanc - plus a good selection of beers. The atmosphere is spot-on - relaxed and informal yet smart, friendly and genuinely welcoming.
On moving through to the dining room, we were sat in the calm and well-lit dining room and given bread and menus very efficiently. In most cases, the staff really know the menu, although there was one dish that the waitress could not comment on as she'd not tried it (on a later visit, we overheard that the new menu had just been introduced and that all the staff had been tasting it). To start, McFoodie chose the chicken liver parfait and I had the goat's cheese salad. Both were great dishes with a big chunk of parfait that had a wonderful texture - the usual comment about not quite enough toast was made but bread was easily obtained to make up for it. The goat's cheese was beautifully nut-crusted with a lovely dressed salad of green leaves and beetroot - you get a lot of cheese for your money at the White Oak and the dish was very well-balanced and enjoyable - the only slight criticism was that there could have been more beetroot, which was specifically mentioned on the menu. Still, at least I'm not moaning about a lack of cheese!
The main courses really were sublime and McFoodie and I both thought them to be the best things we'd eaten in ages. Duck breast with a spiced honey sauce and gnocchi was the perfect choice for my husband, for who only a small number of potato dishes are acceptable. The duck was perfectly cooked and full of flavour and the spicing was just right. For me, lamb cutlets with gratin dauphinoise was impeccable - it was served with roasted carrot and parsnip and the kind of jus that you want to ask for in a pint glass. The lamb was so well-cooked, beautifully pink and incredibly flavoursome. The meal was washed down with a very enjoyable Marlborough sauvignon blanc (yes, white wine with lamb and duck!).
Once main meals were done, I couldn't even consider eating anything more for fear of bursting at the seams but McFoodie chose a selection of Salcombe Dairy ice creams - staying true to our shared love of Devon.
Overall this was an incredibly enjoyable experience - great food, lovely surroundings and very good staff in both the restaurant and the bar. I can't recommend this place highly enough and between that visit and writing this, not only have we returned for many a glass of wine but also shared a starter platter one evening - wonderful honeyed sweet potato soup, that amazing chicken liver parfait, the best breaded king prawns I've ever had and a ham hock terrine that, on reading the menu left me unmoved, but proved to be the jewel in the crown.
Bottom line - if you're going to eat in the Berkshire/South Buckinghamshire area, this is a real must. I can't tell you how much the bill was as McFoodie's father payed (thanks pa-in-law!) but I can say that it's worth every penny!
Sunday 15 March 2009
The Hand and Flowers, Marlow
I've wanted to go to the Hand and Flowers (http://www.thehandandflowers.co.uk/) for a while now so when it turned out that McFoodie and I had friends who shared this desire, we decided to make a night of it. The place has a Michelin star, which kind of gets your hopes up, and pretty much every time I've driven past it on the weekend, there's a sign out saying it's fully booked...no credit crunch special offers here.
We had a 7.30pm reservation, earlier than I normally eat, but the place still had a good buzz to it when we arrived, and not a sprog in sight! We were seated efficiently, presented with the leather-bound menus and left to peruse what the evening had in store. Our table for four was of a decent size but far too close to two of the other tables in our area of the restaurant, so both McFoodie and another member of our group were unable to move...not a great start. This was made worse by the room being incredibly hot and for no apparent reason.
The menu (http://www.thehandandflowers.co.uk/Menus/A%20la%20carte.doc) has lots of interesting options, with some regional produce, such as Thames Valley lamb and Oxfordshire rump steak, although vegetarians are well and truly scuppered. It was a little disappointing that there were no daily specials, but the main menu provided plenty of choice. There was an interesting range of wines, with a strong French flavour. We were given a selection of freshly baked breads and some flavoursome whitebait, served in a newpaper cone with tartare sauce. However, we were not really given enough time to make a dent in this before the starters arrived. To start, McFoodie and I both had the parfait of duck and foie gras with orange chutney and bouchon brioche - the parfait was wonderfully light and quite different, although - as usual - there was far less brioche than parfait (why...when bread is the cheaper item?!?!). The orange chutney was tangy and cut through the richness of the parfait. Reports on the terrine of old spot pork and bacon with hot pickled pineapple seemed good, while the moules marinière with warm stout and brown bed was not at all what was expected but seemed to please nonetheless. The most bizarre thing about the starters had to be the enormous plates on which they were served - in the case of the parfait, which was a small quenelle on a huge dish. This was quite ridiculous, made the table far more squashed than it needed to be and seemed quite unnecessary.
After a short pause, main courses arrived. My Oxfordshire rump steak with Hand and Flowers chips and béarnaise sauce was really good - the chips have a reputation that go before them and it is certainly well-deserved, they're far superior to Heston Blumenthal's triple-cooked chips at the Hinds Head in Bray. The steak was very nicely cooked and really tender although not as strongly-flavoured as I'd expected. McFoodie went for slow cooked Oxford beef with bone marrow pudding, pomme galette and braising jus - the beef had a really good flavour but was considerably tougher than expected. The pudding, the idea of which had initially terrified me, was pleasantly herby and provided a good contrast to the rich meat. The pomme galette turned out to be a new form of potatoes that appealed to my potato-hating husband, as it's basically a big crisp! One of our friends had the tart of honey roast breast of duck with savoy cabbage and chanterelles, and commented that it was the best-cooked duck breast she'd had, although had she not also ordered a side of chips, I think she'd have felt quite short-changed. The other friend had the saddle of Thames Valley lamb with pearl barley and laverbread and seemed very pleased, notably with the accompaniments, which seemed to be a pleasant surprise. My experience of pearl barley has been the sensation of chewing on small rubber nuggets but this was not at the case here.
We'd not thought that desserts were going to be an option, partly because of all the food we'd already eaten but also because the heat was getting a bit much, but once the table next to us left and we were able to open the window, things changed! The apple tart was much in-demand at our table, and rightly so as it was one of the best apple tarts I've had in years, but the caramel ice cream was really unpleasant, with what were presumably meant to be complex burnt undertones really dominating. The tart itself was difficult to cut through, which resulted in a comment from our friend who'd had the duck tart that they'd found the same with that. However, that didn't really knock points off as the flavour was so good. One friend had the Valrhona 70% chocolate tart with malted milk ice cream, which he said was ver good and definitely on a level with the apple tart...with considerably more palatable ice cream!
Overall, this was an enjoyable evening and a good meal, but perhaps not as great as we'd expected. While the food was certainly a long way from bad, the overall experience was what let the Hand and Flowers down. The service was a little brusque and certainly couldn't be described as friendly - there seemed to be several "ranks" among the staff and you had to get the right person for your request, rather than just knowing whose eye you had to catch. On a more positive note, the staff seemed to know their stuff and certainly knew the menu. In terms of cost, this is never going to be a cheap evening, and you wouldn't want it to be, but we were incredibly impressed when the bill came along - 3 courses for 4 people plus wine was just under £190...far less than expected. The website claims that the chef "combines unpretentious modern British flavours as well as rustic French dishes" as I'm really not sure that I agree with the former point. While, in general, the food was certainly very good, the welcome was not nearly as warm as the restaurant itself - the place itself was a little stuffy, verging on pretentious at times and really just lacked buzz and that something special that makes you feel that you will definitely go back. It's hard when you go somewhere with high expectations, but I can't help thinking that places like the Royal Oak in Bovingdon Green (http://www.royaloakmarlow.co.uk/) and the White Oak in Cookham (http://www.thewhiteoak.co.uk/wo-contactus-content.swf) offer comparable food in a more enjoyable atmosphere where you feel genuinely welcome.
We had a 7.30pm reservation, earlier than I normally eat, but the place still had a good buzz to it when we arrived, and not a sprog in sight! We were seated efficiently, presented with the leather-bound menus and left to peruse what the evening had in store. Our table for four was of a decent size but far too close to two of the other tables in our area of the restaurant, so both McFoodie and another member of our group were unable to move...not a great start. This was made worse by the room being incredibly hot and for no apparent reason.
The menu (http://www.thehandandflowers.co.uk/Menus/A%20la%20carte.doc) has lots of interesting options, with some regional produce, such as Thames Valley lamb and Oxfordshire rump steak, although vegetarians are well and truly scuppered. It was a little disappointing that there were no daily specials, but the main menu provided plenty of choice. There was an interesting range of wines, with a strong French flavour. We were given a selection of freshly baked breads and some flavoursome whitebait, served in a newpaper cone with tartare sauce. However, we were not really given enough time to make a dent in this before the starters arrived. To start, McFoodie and I both had the parfait of duck and foie gras with orange chutney and bouchon brioche - the parfait was wonderfully light and quite different, although - as usual - there was far less brioche than parfait (why...when bread is the cheaper item?!?!). The orange chutney was tangy and cut through the richness of the parfait. Reports on the terrine of old spot pork and bacon with hot pickled pineapple seemed good, while the moules marinière with warm stout and brown bed was not at all what was expected but seemed to please nonetheless. The most bizarre thing about the starters had to be the enormous plates on which they were served - in the case of the parfait, which was a small quenelle on a huge dish. This was quite ridiculous, made the table far more squashed than it needed to be and seemed quite unnecessary.
After a short pause, main courses arrived. My Oxfordshire rump steak with Hand and Flowers chips and béarnaise sauce was really good - the chips have a reputation that go before them and it is certainly well-deserved, they're far superior to Heston Blumenthal's triple-cooked chips at the Hinds Head in Bray. The steak was very nicely cooked and really tender although not as strongly-flavoured as I'd expected. McFoodie went for slow cooked Oxford beef with bone marrow pudding, pomme galette and braising jus - the beef had a really good flavour but was considerably tougher than expected. The pudding, the idea of which had initially terrified me, was pleasantly herby and provided a good contrast to the rich meat. The pomme galette turned out to be a new form of potatoes that appealed to my potato-hating husband, as it's basically a big crisp! One of our friends had the tart of honey roast breast of duck with savoy cabbage and chanterelles, and commented that it was the best-cooked duck breast she'd had, although had she not also ordered a side of chips, I think she'd have felt quite short-changed. The other friend had the saddle of Thames Valley lamb with pearl barley and laverbread and seemed very pleased, notably with the accompaniments, which seemed to be a pleasant surprise. My experience of pearl barley has been the sensation of chewing on small rubber nuggets but this was not at the case here.
We'd not thought that desserts were going to be an option, partly because of all the food we'd already eaten but also because the heat was getting a bit much, but once the table next to us left and we were able to open the window, things changed! The apple tart was much in-demand at our table, and rightly so as it was one of the best apple tarts I've had in years, but the caramel ice cream was really unpleasant, with what were presumably meant to be complex burnt undertones really dominating. The tart itself was difficult to cut through, which resulted in a comment from our friend who'd had the duck tart that they'd found the same with that. However, that didn't really knock points off as the flavour was so good. One friend had the Valrhona 70% chocolate tart with malted milk ice cream, which he said was ver good and definitely on a level with the apple tart...with considerably more palatable ice cream!
Overall, this was an enjoyable evening and a good meal, but perhaps not as great as we'd expected. While the food was certainly a long way from bad, the overall experience was what let the Hand and Flowers down. The service was a little brusque and certainly couldn't be described as friendly - there seemed to be several "ranks" among the staff and you had to get the right person for your request, rather than just knowing whose eye you had to catch. On a more positive note, the staff seemed to know their stuff and certainly knew the menu. In terms of cost, this is never going to be a cheap evening, and you wouldn't want it to be, but we were incredibly impressed when the bill came along - 3 courses for 4 people plus wine was just under £190...far less than expected. The website claims that the chef "combines unpretentious modern British flavours as well as rustic French dishes" as I'm really not sure that I agree with the former point. While, in general, the food was certainly very good, the welcome was not nearly as warm as the restaurant itself - the place itself was a little stuffy, verging on pretentious at times and really just lacked buzz and that something special that makes you feel that you will definitely go back. It's hard when you go somewhere with high expectations, but I can't help thinking that places like the Royal Oak in Bovingdon Green (http://www.royaloakmarlow.co.uk/) and the White Oak in Cookham (http://www.thewhiteoak.co.uk/wo-contactus-content.swf) offer comparable food in a more enjoyable atmosphere where you feel genuinely welcome.
Monday 9 March 2009
Hotel du Vin, Newcastle
This weekend the country mouse went to the town! I have to admit that I'm a bit of a sucker for Hotel du Vin (http://www.hotelduvin.com/), even though I'm not usually a fan of chains. In this case, however, you know not only what you're going to get but also that you're going to like it. McFoodie and I plod off to Newcastle every so often to see his grandfather, and we've always stayed at Malmaison (for pretty much the aforementioned reasons) but since the new Hotel du Vin opened in October (http://www.hotelduvin.com/HotelLanding.aspx?HotelId=25), we've been looking forward to having another option...and to being a bit further away from the stag and hen infested madness of the quayside area of town.
Having already stayed at HdV in Cheltenham and in Henley and eaten at the one in Winchester, there really wasn't much question as to where we'd eat, so we'd opted for a dinner, bed and breakfast rate at £200. It's a really good deal - a mezzanine room, three courses with one side order and coffee and then breakfast the next morning. Our room was interesting, with the bathroom overlooking the bedroom, perfect for splashing McFoodie as he watched the football. Hotel du Vin know how to make you feel at home - the room was very nicely done and touches like full-size bottles of Arran Aromatics toiletries and real milk in the fridge make you feel less like a night away from home means compromising.
Once McFoodie had enough of my splashing and the football was over, we headed over to the bar for a drink before dinner. The bar has a really good atmosphere - just the right combination of smart and relaxed, and a glass of champagne each was a great start. When we went through to the bistro (http://www.hotelduvin.com/HotelPage.aspx?HotelId=25&NavigationId=165), it was buzzy but not too busy and we were lucky to get a table by the window, overlooking the terrace. Wonderfully fresh bread was promptly brought to our table to munch on while we perused the menus.
What Hotel du Vin does so well is sticking to what it does best - the menu is fairly simple but exciting, with a great mix of contemporary European dishes. Added to this is an emphasis on locally sourced produce, and great wine. There is a sommelier who takes your order after you've chosen food and they're happy to make recommendations that don't entirely break the bank. We chose a very nice sauvignon blanc from Casablanca, because it sounded romantic for our delayed Valentine's treat.
I started with squid with aioli - it's something I often dread ordering for fear of ending up with the regimented breaded rings that I always think came straight from a bag in the deep freeze, but this was great - big chunks of crispy, breaded squid with aioli that had just the right amount of punch. McFoodie opted for a homemade scotch egg, which was served with a herbed mayonnaise and seemed very good and was a perfect choice for my vegetable-hating husband. Choosing a main course had been a tough challenge as there was so much that tempted me, but I was glad that I went for pan fried sea bream with green beans and sauce vierge - it was beautifully cooked and my side order of creamy mashed potatoes was the perfect accompaniment. Someone at the table next to me ordered beef bourguignonne, which had left me suffering serious food envy, but I was pleased to recover once my own plate was in front of me. McFoodie had a really great ribeye steak with peppercorn sauce, and loved it, although it left him somewhat defeated. His request to have frites instead of fat chips caused no problem at all, and he ended up with a proper cone of chips that could probably have fed a table of four.
On finishing our main courses we realised the foolishness of throwing quite so much of the delicious bread down our throats. McFoodie managed to squeeze in some apricot sorbet, with a little help, and I had cheese. There was an impressive choice of British and French cheeses and the person serving really knew their stuff.
We left the restaurant feeling very full but very happy. Breakfast the following morning was just as good - with granola, yogurt and pastries for me, while McFoodie went for French toast with bacon, which seemed to make him very happy. As a devout cynic, I'm sure that I'll be disappointed one day, but I do like Hotel du Vin for its air of understated sophistication and consistent quality. Overall, it didn't break the bank either, even with £20 frivolously spent on valet parking. I hope I get another Hotel du Vin hit before too long.
Having already stayed at HdV in Cheltenham and in Henley and eaten at the one in Winchester, there really wasn't much question as to where we'd eat, so we'd opted for a dinner, bed and breakfast rate at £200. It's a really good deal - a mezzanine room, three courses with one side order and coffee and then breakfast the next morning. Our room was interesting, with the bathroom overlooking the bedroom, perfect for splashing McFoodie as he watched the football. Hotel du Vin know how to make you feel at home - the room was very nicely done and touches like full-size bottles of Arran Aromatics toiletries and real milk in the fridge make you feel less like a night away from home means compromising.
Once McFoodie had enough of my splashing and the football was over, we headed over to the bar for a drink before dinner. The bar has a really good atmosphere - just the right combination of smart and relaxed, and a glass of champagne each was a great start. When we went through to the bistro (http://www.hotelduvin.com/HotelPage.aspx?HotelId=25&NavigationId=165), it was buzzy but not too busy and we were lucky to get a table by the window, overlooking the terrace. Wonderfully fresh bread was promptly brought to our table to munch on while we perused the menus.
What Hotel du Vin does so well is sticking to what it does best - the menu is fairly simple but exciting, with a great mix of contemporary European dishes. Added to this is an emphasis on locally sourced produce, and great wine. There is a sommelier who takes your order after you've chosen food and they're happy to make recommendations that don't entirely break the bank. We chose a very nice sauvignon blanc from Casablanca, because it sounded romantic for our delayed Valentine's treat.
I started with squid with aioli - it's something I often dread ordering for fear of ending up with the regimented breaded rings that I always think came straight from a bag in the deep freeze, but this was great - big chunks of crispy, breaded squid with aioli that had just the right amount of punch. McFoodie opted for a homemade scotch egg, which was served with a herbed mayonnaise and seemed very good and was a perfect choice for my vegetable-hating husband. Choosing a main course had been a tough challenge as there was so much that tempted me, but I was glad that I went for pan fried sea bream with green beans and sauce vierge - it was beautifully cooked and my side order of creamy mashed potatoes was the perfect accompaniment. Someone at the table next to me ordered beef bourguignonne, which had left me suffering serious food envy, but I was pleased to recover once my own plate was in front of me. McFoodie had a really great ribeye steak with peppercorn sauce, and loved it, although it left him somewhat defeated. His request to have frites instead of fat chips caused no problem at all, and he ended up with a proper cone of chips that could probably have fed a table of four.
On finishing our main courses we realised the foolishness of throwing quite so much of the delicious bread down our throats. McFoodie managed to squeeze in some apricot sorbet, with a little help, and I had cheese. There was an impressive choice of British and French cheeses and the person serving really knew their stuff.
We left the restaurant feeling very full but very happy. Breakfast the following morning was just as good - with granola, yogurt and pastries for me, while McFoodie went for French toast with bacon, which seemed to make him very happy. As a devout cynic, I'm sure that I'll be disappointed one day, but I do like Hotel du Vin for its air of understated sophistication and consistent quality. Overall, it didn't break the bank either, even with £20 frivolously spent on valet parking. I hope I get another Hotel du Vin hit before too long.
Tuesday 3 March 2009
Windsor Grill, Windsor
Overall, Windsor Grill (http://www.awtrestaurants.com/windsor/) is a good place - the service is friendly and efficient, the food is pretty good and it doesn't really just feel that Antony Worrall Thompson is just trading on his name..although with branded cutlery and more AWT references on the menu than I could be bothered to count, it plays a fairly prominent role. The website claims that this and the other restaurants in the group offer "real food for real people, no pompous surroundings, no fuss, just excellent quality traditional food in a relaxed and enjoyable way" and I'd say that's pretty true. It's a nice environment and does a good job of not being pretentious - the bar is friendly for pre-dinner drinks and jeans were perfectly acceptable attire. I've visited on a number of occasions and have also been to Kew Grill in Richmond (http://www.awtrestaurants.com/kewgrill/), but much prefer Windsor for its relaxed yet smart feel.
This foodie adventure was for McFoodie's work dinner club, and eight of us ate in the private dining room, which was a generally pleasant experience. The room was well-decorated and great for a group that doesn't want to keep the volume too low. However, it could have benefited from a little air and a better music system - we plugged our own iPod into a not very good dock to provide some atmosphere.
Nobody in our group ordered a starter and I was impressed that the staff didn't look down on this when we were making use of the private dining room. Bread and olives were delivered swiftly to the table (more on that later) and our orders were taken efficiently. Several people in our group opted for fillet steak with one of the several sauces on offer, and this seemed to be a good choice although one person found that their sauce was cold. McFoodie opted for one of the specialities - Antony's own roast middle white suckling pig, sage and onion stuffing and apple and chilli jelly, and was very impressed - he loved the stuffing and the jelly. The mouthful I tried was certainly very good, with excellent crackling, although I'd say that for £18.95, being charged an extra £3.25 for fries was a bit cheeky. I opted for one of the daily specials - medallions of rump steak with rosemary and parmesan potatoes and pepperonata, which was lovely. Another person ordered the daily special of halibut - a mammoth chunk of fish! The dessert menu was greeted with open arms, albeit alongside already-full stomachs - McFoodie had sticky toffee pudding with ginger ice cream and liked it a lot, while my pecan pie was nice but the cinnamon ice cream that came with it was very grainy and not so pleasant. Elsewhere on the table, the creme brulee seemed to be enjoyed but the chocolate tasting plate was disappointing and lacked flavour. There was also a good choice of wines - we opted for an enjoyable Montes sauvignon blanc from Chile - and jugs of water were delivered with great efficiency.
Overall this was a good experience - my only significant criticism is that everything comes at a price. Very few of the dishes on the extensive menu came with any potatoes or vegetables and I can't help thinking that if bread is brought to you with no prompting, charging for it is a bit cheeky. If I order something, I have no issue with paying for it, but if I don't, I assume that I won't see it on the bill, so I ended up in a bit of grump at the approach taken here...it wasn't even great bread!. Had the service not been good, I'd perhaps not have paid the 12.5% service charge added to the bill - but as the website states that this is distributed to all staff, I'm glad I didn't do that. The bottom line is that for meat eaters in particular, Windsor Grill is a good experience, but with Mr Worral Thompson clearly facing some economic challenges, having recently closed four of his restaurants, he shouldn't rest on his laurels. The current concerns regarding the economy have led to restaurants at either end of the gastronomical spectrum to be far more aware of what diners are looking for, but this one seems to be living in blissful ignorance and doing all it can to keep the coffers full. There are other restaurants in the area that are just as good as this - if not better - and which feel a bit less commercial. Having visited several times when someone else was picking up the bill, I think it felt more special then!
This foodie adventure was for McFoodie's work dinner club, and eight of us ate in the private dining room, which was a generally pleasant experience. The room was well-decorated and great for a group that doesn't want to keep the volume too low. However, it could have benefited from a little air and a better music system - we plugged our own iPod into a not very good dock to provide some atmosphere.
Nobody in our group ordered a starter and I was impressed that the staff didn't look down on this when we were making use of the private dining room. Bread and olives were delivered swiftly to the table (more on that later) and our orders were taken efficiently. Several people in our group opted for fillet steak with one of the several sauces on offer, and this seemed to be a good choice although one person found that their sauce was cold. McFoodie opted for one of the specialities - Antony's own roast middle white suckling pig, sage and onion stuffing and apple and chilli jelly, and was very impressed - he loved the stuffing and the jelly. The mouthful I tried was certainly very good, with excellent crackling, although I'd say that for £18.95, being charged an extra £3.25 for fries was a bit cheeky. I opted for one of the daily specials - medallions of rump steak with rosemary and parmesan potatoes and pepperonata, which was lovely. Another person ordered the daily special of halibut - a mammoth chunk of fish! The dessert menu was greeted with open arms, albeit alongside already-full stomachs - McFoodie had sticky toffee pudding with ginger ice cream and liked it a lot, while my pecan pie was nice but the cinnamon ice cream that came with it was very grainy and not so pleasant. Elsewhere on the table, the creme brulee seemed to be enjoyed but the chocolate tasting plate was disappointing and lacked flavour. There was also a good choice of wines - we opted for an enjoyable Montes sauvignon blanc from Chile - and jugs of water were delivered with great efficiency.
Overall this was a good experience - my only significant criticism is that everything comes at a price. Very few of the dishes on the extensive menu came with any potatoes or vegetables and I can't help thinking that if bread is brought to you with no prompting, charging for it is a bit cheeky. If I order something, I have no issue with paying for it, but if I don't, I assume that I won't see it on the bill, so I ended up in a bit of grump at the approach taken here...it wasn't even great bread!. Had the service not been good, I'd perhaps not have paid the 12.5% service charge added to the bill - but as the website states that this is distributed to all staff, I'm glad I didn't do that. The bottom line is that for meat eaters in particular, Windsor Grill is a good experience, but with Mr Worral Thompson clearly facing some economic challenges, having recently closed four of his restaurants, he shouldn't rest on his laurels. The current concerns regarding the economy have led to restaurants at either end of the gastronomical spectrum to be far more aware of what diners are looking for, but this one seems to be living in blissful ignorance and doing all it can to keep the coffers full. There are other restaurants in the area that are just as good as this - if not better - and which feel a bit less commercial. Having visited several times when someone else was picking up the bill, I think it felt more special then!
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