The Cheerful Soul, Marlow

McFoodie and I agreed a long time ago that we wouldn't give each other presents for our wedding anniversaries, but would treat ourselves to some kind of experience. This year, for anniversary number 3, we decided we'd give The Cheerful Soul at the Hare and Hounds a try.

The Cheerful Soul has attracted quite a lot of attention in recent months - it's run by Michele English and Russell Clement, who won BBC Television's The Restaurant programme, and is backed by Raymond Blanc. Prior to being taken over, the Hare and Hounds was a pub that never seemed very busy or very interesting, in spite of a couple of makeovers and an attempt at funky branding. It seems that this country pub may have turned a corner, and this is not purely the result of some lucky television coverage. The place has been totally redecorated and I'd wondered what this would mean for the building's character but it's all there and is all the better for some very individual touches. There is a small bar area and the restaurant is divided into two sections, with the second decorated with an assortment of pretty painted images on the walls. The place is a lovely hotch potch of different tables, chairs and lights, but it all comes together and there is a lovely homely feel that still gives you the impression that you're being treated.

McFoodie and I arrived a little early so that we could have something bubbly in the bar before we sat down to eat. The welcome is certainly very warm and, as you'd expect, cheerful. When I'd booked, I'd been asked if the visit was to mark any special occasion and had said it was for our anniversary, wondering if it was a wise move (I'm forever haunted by TGI Friday's once making me stand on a chair while the servers sang "happy birthday"). We were wished a happy anniversary on arrival and then wandered off to the bar for a very nice glass of house champagne and a look at the menu.

As soon as it was 8.30pm, the time of our booking, one of the members of staff came and asked us if we'd like to go through to our table, which was sprinkled with sparkly hearts in honour of our of anniversary. In an old building with wooden floors, wobbly tables are par for the course and it was good to see that the staff know this and address the problem, with the help of a trusty beer mat, before you lose your drink or your temper. As well as being friendly, the service is very efficient, without being overbearing - even on a busy Saturday evening there was always someone nearby to help, so they've obviously got their numbers right. Our orders were taken pretty promptly - maybe it's an anniversary thing but McFoodie and I ordered the same dishes...having made my selection from the menu, I wasn't going to have something different just to have more to write about!

Unlike many other restaurants, bread is paid for but mineral water is complimentary - this seemed a little unusual at first, but it actually makes sense when you think about the food waste and obesity debates - as much as I love bread, I often just eat it because it's there, and then end up not being able to eat as much of the food I've actually ordered. The water was regularly replenished, which was great. Although both the menu and the receipt note that you can buy the branded bottles in aid of the Kileva Foundation (a charitable organisation working in the Coast Province of Kenya), this is by no means forced upon you. We ordered a bottle of New Zealand Astrolabe sauvignon blanc, which, according to the menu, is the world's best sauvignon. Without trying all of the ones that exist, I can't really say if that was correct or not, but it was certainly very good - sharp and lively, and exactly what you want a sauvignon to be. The Cheerful Soul also offers wine by the carafe (500ml), which is a great option for those dining with drivers.

To start, both McFoodie and I chose chicken liver parfait with black fig chutney and toasted baguette - the parfait was incredibly light and soft, with a great flavour that was enhanced by a light sprinkling of chunky rock salt. To follow, we had roasted Gressingham duck breast with hedgerow fruits and savoy cabbage with smoked bacon. The duck was nicely pink - it could have been pinker but was by no means tough or over-cooked, and was packed full of flavour. The cabbage and the smokey flavour of the bacon worked very well with the duck, as did the slices of soft pear and plum. I opted for a side order of mashed potato, which was very nice but could have benefited from a little more pepper and butter, to make it that bit more special. McFoodie's chips were a tempting alternative, wonderfully crisp on the outside and soft in the middle - perfect for the potato hater, who would normally turn his nose up at any form of potato wider than a matchstick!

To finish, McFoodie and I opted for sticky toffee pudding, which was one of the best I've tried in years - soft and dense but without being heavy and packed with flavour from an intensely sweet and sticky sauce, served with a dollop of honeycomb ice cream. This was the perfect ending and I'd certainly recommend anyone dining at the Cheerful Soul to leave room for pudding.

This was a great experience for a special occasion - the Cheerful Soul is relaxed but still feels special and the team behind this restaurant seem to have achieved their goal of making dining there an enjoyable experience. The service was really very good - when my wine glass disappeared at one stage (we'd stashed our bottle away on the windowsill to make more room), a new one was brought to the table very quickly. Because McFoodie was driving, we wanted to take our remaining wine home with us and there was no wrinkling of noses - in fact a bottle top was rapidly sought out and provided. The food and wine were also excellent - I'm definitely going to be looking for Astrolabe wines. It was interesting to see that Russell Clement was sat at one of the tables nearby with a group of friends - even though he wasn't in the kitchen, every snippet of conversation that I overheard seemed to be about food so the restaurant is clearly never far from his mind and maybe that focus and level of interest is what is making this place work. Cost wise, it's not bad either, £101 for three courses for two including two side orders and wine is certainly reasonable for a special occasion and the overall experience was certainly a positive one. I wouldn't be surprised if this place is putting a bit of a squeeze on the Royal Oak at Bovingdon Green, which has very much a similar feel, and I hope it's putting some pressure on The Hand and Flowers, where the food is no better but the pretentious attitude makes the experience not nearly as enjoyable.